Sandakphu-Gurdum Trek - [14th - 21st Dec. 2015]

Sandakphu - Located at an altitude of 3,636 m is a Wonderland for the Trekkers in Darjeeling district, North west of Darjeeling hill town... We can get view of four of the five highest peaks of the world including Mt. Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, along with many other peaks of Nepal, Sikkim, Tibet and Bhutan in one single stretch of snow... We can see when we stand at the highest peak - on the summit of Sandakphu!!!


Darjeeling called as Queen of Hill Stations, famous for its rich tea estate, unique culture, charming n spectacular view of the Kanchenjunga range & the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site... also Internationally acclaimed as one of the best hill resorts & a veritable paradise for trekkers n adventure seekers... Trekking in Darjeeling is an experience which no lover of nature should miss!!!




The trek route passes through the Singalila National Park all the way... So trek journey is further complemented with the national park that has some of the most fascinating rare animals like Red Pandas & Pangolins... And this is the highest point in the Singalila range in the state of West Bengal, India...



The region abounds in rhododendrons of numerous types, giant magnolias, primulas, spruce, wide range of amazing orchids & ferns of numerous varieties... About six hundred different species of birds inhabit the emerald green forests on the slopes of the mountains... There are over 600 varieties of orchids in this area, the largest concentration in any single geographical area in the world... These blooms in the spring...


Base camp            : Darjeeling
Trek Route            : Darjeeling > Dhotrey by jeep >>> Tumling >>> Kalipokhri >>> Sandakphu >>> Gurdum >>> Rimbik > base camp by jeep
Altitude                 ~ 3,636 m [11,929 ft]
Best time to visit   : April to June
Weather                 : Summer : 8°C to 20°C / Winter :- (-2)°C to 7°C 

14th Dec. 2015 - Reporting at Darjeeling base camp [2134 m]
Day 1 - I started my first day from Delhi airport to report to the base camp same day, as I booked flight from Delhi to Bagdogra... I had booked early morning flight at 10 AM, so that I could reach Bagdogra at 12 O'Clock & then to the base camp Darjeeling by afternoon, as it takes approx 3 hrs from Bagdogra... Even then I couldn't reach on time as unexpectedly our flight got landed at Kolkata at 12.30 PM not aware what would be the next!!! Then we got two options either we can go back to Delhi by same flight or get down at Kolkata!!! I was very very confused... what to do!!? Then I thought if I go back to Delhi & if next day again weather is not clear, I wont be able to reach to Darjeeling... However if I get down at Kolkata, I can either travel by road or by train so that I can reach to Darjeeling by next day morning for sure!!! So finally I chose to get down at Kolkata... Some of other flight mates were also planning to go by bus... 
And to my surprise there were near about 30-40 flight mates who were ready to go by bus, so we all decided to arrange a bus (sleeper coach) so that we all can go together!!! It was very different kind of experience to be with flight mates - with whom we rarely talk while traveling!!! Really it was very unexpected & pleasant surprise to be with & to know about flight mates who all were from different states & different countries... I got lots of good friends altogether, who were helping each other... Never before Experience!!!
And one more addition to my surprise - We all got a receipt of full refund for our flight (Jet Airways) from Kolkata airport itself!!! One of the reliable airways I must say... Later on I came to know from my other trek mates, who all came same day, but from different airways & faced the same issue of landing at Kolkata airport - but most of them didn't get refund!!!

So finally after a lots of struggle we got a bus (till Siliguri) right there at the exit gate of airport by the evening 6.30 - 7 PM... And Thanks to Rani aunty (US resident, but originally from Darjeeling) who arranged a bus with the help of her friend, who is an IAS officer in Kolkata... So all credit goes to her friend - who not only arranged the bus for us, but she was there with us till the time we left from the airport... very down to earth personality!!! So after spending good 5-6 hrs at airport, we all became like a family... got so many Good n Lifetime memories with us!!!


15th Dec. 2015 - Acclimatization & Orientation
Day 2
- Next day morning we reached to Siliguri & from there we all had to go to different places... some of them were moving to neighboring countries like Nepal, Bhutan & Bangladesh... We were 5, who wanted to go to Darjeeling which is about 65 Kms & takes approx 3-4 hrs from Siliguri... so we booked taxi - enjoyed all the way with beautiful hills of Darjeeling with short breaks in between... On the way first we saw the military area - Sukna afterwards there were tea estates & townships on the height of the hills...
saw toy train & tracks criss-crossing the road all the way till Darjeeling via Teen Dharia, Kurseoung, Sonada, Ghoom(Monastery), Batasia Loop & many more!!! Finally I reached by the afternoon 2 PM to the base camp near Darjeeling railway station... n thats how my 2nd day became my reporting day... So I couldn't go for Acclimatization walk in the morning... but then I had lunch & went to visit the market of Darjeeling... Came back by the time of orientation late in the evening... Then had dinner, bournvita & finally slept early as I was very tired...


16th Dec. 2015 - Transfer to Dhotrey by jeep/Trek to Tumling [2900 m / 7 Km]
Day 3 - Next day we woke up early in the morning... had tea & breakfast... finally got ready with packed lunch to move to our next destination Dhotrey by jeep... And from there we had to start trekking towards our next camp Tumling... And to my surprise this campsite comes in Nepal... was very excited to cross the border of India towards Nepal & that to through the forest... On the way we took lunch at the lunch point & then just 2 
Kms before Tumling we took a short break at Tonglu for Tea... Very Nice place for halt surrounded by beautiful mountains!!! Then we moved further... Though distance was not much, we reached by the afternoon to our first campsite, Tumling... but weather was very foggy, so it was like evening...

Tumling located at an altitude of 9,600 ft., falls on the West of Darjeeling town... If weather is clear we can see a clear view of Kanchenjunga (spelt as Khangchendzonga - means "Five repositories of God’s treasure, namely gold, silver, gems, grains & a guardian deity of the Sikkimese) situated on the border of India n Nepal & it is 3rd highest mountain in the World... Also there are fine views of the Nepalese valleys & plains of North Bengal with snow fed Teesta on the East, Koshi on the West & number of smaller rivers between them...




Me standing left at India-Nepal border / Cottage (right) in Nepal

Our camp site was located at the border of India & Nepal literally... On the left hand side, lil downwards, there was girls cottage n just in the front there was boys cottage - as if its half in India & half in Nepal!!! Interesting Na!!!


Our cottage - more like home stay was one of the best accommodation ever... One huge room with more than 10 double beds with proper bedding, small windows all over the roof as well, to get breathtaking views from all the sides... Very neat n clean - one of the
heaven like place!!! And the family, owner of this place was amazing!!! Their hospitality, food-tea with hot pakoras, soup n delicious dinner... having all the facilities including hot water for washing utensils & coal fire was one of the most important thing at almost 2-3 deg temp.!!! Amazing n heart touching experience all in all :)

17th Dec. 2015 - Trek to Kalipokhri - [3108 m / 13 Km]
Day 4 - Next day early in the morning I woke up when somebody said, "Hey get up n see the beautiful view outside!!!" which we couldn't see a day before when we reached in the evening, coz of fogginess all over... But when I opened my eyes n turned back to see through the window, it was amazing scenic beauty out there!!! N guess what!!! it was a clear view of "THE KANCHENJUNGA"!!!
View from Window
Literally Unbelievable moment - that from your bed you can see the world's 3rd highest Mountain!!! n that to so near n clear... just 19 Kms air distance from our camp!!! having tea in front of the highest Mountain!!! It was just "WOW" - the most Memorable moment & Place in my life!!! Loved it...







After having hot n delicious breakfast, we got ready to move to our next camp Kalipokhri, which is at an altitude of 10,400 ft., 7 Kms till Gairibas & 6 kms from Gairibas... The place is named because of a pond or a water tank filled with black water!!! The word Kali means black & Pokhri stands for water area... However the black color is not due to pollution - it's muddy & the water never freezes... Due to all-time water availability, a small village settlement has taken place in this area...


About 1km from Tumling we got the arch gateway of Singalila National Park, which is the highest altitude National Park in the state of West Bengal... This park is well known for rare & Fascinating high altitude animals like Red Panda, Pangolins, Himalayan black bear, Monals etc., there is a check post here at Singalila gate & we need to pay a permit fee (Singalilla National Park Entry fee) for the trek which is Rs. 100/- per person for Indians & Rs. 200/- for foreigners...This fee can be paid at Manebhanjan which comes before Tumling or at Singalila Park check post which comes after Tumling... Without paying this fee, entry through Singalia National Park is not allowed... But we didn't pay as it was included in our YHAI package...
  


Tonglu to Tumling & all the way up to Gairibas is a gradual descend & trek is relatively easier... Then on the way we took rest at tea point...

Finally we reached to Kalipokhri village through the forest of rhododendron, Singalila Sanctuary & then by the pond...



By the time we reach to Kalipokhri, it got foggy all over again like a day before... Then as per the schedule we had tea, soup n dinner... Finally lights off...

18th Dec. 2015 - Trek to Sandakphu - [3636 m / 6 Km]
Day 5 - Next morning after having tea n breakfast, we started for our Final destination & highest camp Sandakphu... we started lil early at about 8 o'clock in the morning, as an early start from here gives a chance to view the snow peaks twice, once as soon as you reach Sandakphu... the panoramic view of the snow peaks from Sandakphu, is best seen early in the morning...
2 kms from Kalipokhri, the trekking route gradually descends up to Bikheybhanjang (The name means "Valley of Poison" because of the poisonous Aconite plants that grow in abundance around this place)...


And now the final destination Sandakphu Peak - further 4 kms from Bikheybhanjang... but like all great things in life, this won't come easy!!! From Bikheybhanjang the climb up to Sandakphu is the steepest... The 4 kms route can easily take about 2-3 hours... There are stretches where the gradient is very steep...
Actually there are two trek routes from Bikheybhanjang, one through Nepal & the other through India... One through India is shorter & more popular although both the routes merges at same place... After climbing up to the highest point of our trek, I thought its just a lunch point as we reached so early before 12 o'clock... But to my surprise it was Sandakphu!!! I couldn't realize even by crossing the welcome board of Sandakphu, as I was so busy in taking pics of this Beautiful place!!! n I came to know when I asked someone - when will we leave from this lunch point!!! lol...
I was so happy with a thought that I am at the highest point at an altitude of 11,929 ft., on the summit of Singalila range at the Paradise of Trekking!!! As always, the final rewards are awesome :)




After spending some time at our camp & waiting for all other group mates who were coming behind, we were served hot sweet corn soup, finally we got our rooms... Nice room on the first floor with Beautiful views all over :) Only thing bothered there was very limited usage of water as it gets converted into ice due to its low temperature... We already got the instructions before coming to this place that we will get drinking water only!!! Moreover we all could see that water in the drum n
buckets was already converted into Ice!!! Hats off to the localities who live there & bring water on their shoulder all the way from down hills... First time I visited to such a place where I could see & judge how difficult the life is!!! But I enjoyed this place a lot :)
Also we were told by our camp leader not to sleep at all before & after lunch, as it will create problem for us!!! Had Hot n Delicious lunch at 0°C temp.!!! Then in the afternoon at about 3 o'clock we went to visit the temple of local deity which was just about 1-2 Kms from our camp... Came by 4 pm - had tea & we were supposed to go to sunset point at about 5 pm... But only few people could go as others including me was feeling very tired... also I thought because of weather & fog we may not be able to see the sunset... But next day early morning we went to see the sunrise :)





Then as per the schedule we had soup, dinner & this time Horlicks - lil early coz of weather... Then we had camp fire, in which our camp leader gave very interesting information about Mountains n Mountaineers...


19th Dec. 2015 - Trek to Gurdum [2910 m /14 Km]
Day 6 - Next morning few of us got up at about 4.30 AM to view sunrise & reached to the point with our camp leader... just 2 mins walk opposite to our camp, where we could see clear view of all the Mountains - Mt. Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, along with many other peaks of Nepal, Sikkim, Tibet & Bhutan... Amazing views!!! Top of the world feeling n Awesome experience!!! Most importantly all the information about this peaks were very well explained by our camp leader...







Then from there again 1 min walk & we were at Sunrise point!!! At about 5 o'clock we all were waiting eagerly for rising the sun... Ready with our cameras at (-5°C) temp. surrounded by terrific sound of cold winds!!! n here comes most awaiting moment - Sun is rising slowly slowly - Wow!!! No words to explain my happiness... Somehow I could manage to capture live moments n few pics in my phone... No sensation of having hands at all... One of the most hard going, but Lifetime moment at the highest point & the lowest Temperature!!!






Then after having tea n delicious breakfast we started for our next camp Gurdum... There is a direct downhill trek to Gurdum through dense forests... The most popular return route from Sandakphu is via Gurdum to Srikhola & then to Rimbik... The trail descends through the dense Singalila forest full of Oaks & Chestnuts... There are some places where sunlight can't enter... We saw lots of flowering rhododendron trees on the way that bloom in April & May...
This was one of the shortest routes... The stretch from Sandakphu up to Gurdum is 12 kms, but can be covered in just about 3-4 hours as its total downhill... As we come closure to this beautiful place we can see how the ridges full with dense trees descend in the backdrop to the valley below... It's a Wonderful sight...



Finally when we reached to Gurdum, amazed to see this Beautiful place with a couple of trekker's huts... It is a picture perfect tiny village... Only four or five families live here...




Wonderful feeling after entering into our campsite as we could get sufficient water n lil high temp. after spending one hard day at Sandakphu... After long trekking till this camp, this was the place where we had bath facilities as well... By the time all other group mates came, it was lunch time... so we had lunch, then had lots of time to take rest & mingle with this place... 


Afternoon as per the schedule we had tea with hot Pakoras... Soup & delicious dinner in the evening...

20th Dec. 2015 - Trek to Rimbik [2286 m / 13 Km]
Day 7 - Next morning after having tea & delicious breakfast (yummy aloo paratha with spicy green chutney), we started for our next camp via another beautiful place called Srikhola (6 kms from Gurdum), situated near Srikhola river, the place has been named after a lovely Mountain stream which too has the same name (the word Khola means a stream)... This is the place where the vehicular road starts...
It is total downhill till Srikhola, where we took a break for our lunch as per the YHAI schedule... But we reached too early, so we took some rest & after having hot Khichari, we started for out last camp Rimbik - another 7 kms trek... We started from Shrikhola to Rimbik on a trekking path from where we could see North part of Sikkim over a small Mountain - from where the road rises steep, for about 1 km. & it levels out again till it reaches Rimbick...






while passing through numerous small villages covered with nature's beauty we also met lots of lovely people on our way to Rimbik... It was one of the Beautiful experience!!!




n finally reached a small bazar called Rimbick bazar...very Colorful n Attractive!!! While going through to our camp, I decided I will come back for shopping as soon as I reach to the camp...

When we reached to our campsite at Rimbik near about 2 o'clock afternoon, it was Awesome weather, which increased the beauty of this Beautiful place... This is again one of the best campsite, hotel like room on first floor - having all the facilities... After taking hot water bath after a long time, it was double Joyful feeling... Visited market, which was very near to our camp, had satisfactory shopping, met lovely people over there & came back by tea time... Had tea & Samosa... Again lots of spare time to roam around, but I preferred to just sit back & relax in the lawn, opposite to our room... 
Then we had Valedictory Ceremony in the presence of Mr. Sherpa - owner of our camp-stay, where we got our Certificates & Grand Dinner... This place was properly decorated & very well equipped by speakers with loud music to make it more Lively...



Still I cant forget neat n cleanliness of all the kitchens at the camp sites... Specially Gurdum - their smiley faces all the time - their hospitality... Very nice people all over our camp sites... One of the best Trek & best place to visit!!!

All in all very nice trek route with unmatched beauty & very short routes comparatively, so that we could reach early, mostly by lunch time & enjoy the Nature of all these Beautiful places :)


21st Dec. 2015 - Transfer to Darjeeling Base camp - [54 Km]
Day 8 - Next morning we woke up with relaxed mood, as it was our last day & we had to go to our base camp by jeep... Had tea n breakfast... Then we all were transferred by jeep enjoying the route all over with Unforgettable memories... It took 4 hrs to reach Darjeeling...



Lunch was ready, so after having lunch few of us decided to go to New Jalpaiguri to catch our trains... Till that time my return ticket was not booked, as I was confused whether I should go by flight or by train, coz due to weather flight may get cancelled... So I decided to go by train & I had to check if I can get ticket from current booking!!! Unfortunately no tickets were available, still I took normal ticket to get into the train, but thankfully I got confirmed seat in 3rd AC after the train started :)
I was supposed to reach next day at 7.30 PM to Delhi, but my train got delayed by 5 hrs & I reached at about 12.30 in the night... Now my biggest problem was going home from the station, as metro runs till 11 pm only... But Thanks to my uncle who sent his driver for pick up... Finally I reached home safely with lots of Sweet & Unforgettable memories...





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